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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.